7.21.2007

The First Time Always Hurts

I made my very first batch of cheese on May 14 of this year, a 1# wheel of organic raw milk farmhouse cheddar. (Because I chose to use raw milk, it was recommended that the cheese age for a minimum of 2 months.) The following weekend I made my second batch using the same exact recipe only with different milk, an organic pasteurized milk. My goal was to compare the resulting flavor of a cheese based solely upon its milk content. If only that were the case; I forgot about the human error part.

The first foray into the cheese making process, I wasn't familiar with just how quickly the temperature of milk could rise. Or for how long it would be able to hold a temp, no matter how wrong. And not only that, but when I made the brilliant decision to create half recipes rather than full ones I think I split the bag of cultures unevenly (which undoubtedly created a vast difference in the two cheeses). Nonetheless by the end of my maiden voyage, I thought it was all pretty straightforward. I amaze myself sometimes with such logic.

Then came the second attempt. I suddenly had become an expert, and while I kept my temperatures down to the desired level (mostly anyway), I moved things along a bit too quickly when it came time to bring the curds from 90 to 100 degrees. This resulted in a greater mass of curds that were particularly softer than the first batch. These curds seemed to be holding on to too much whey (once more, I had become an expert) and were difficult to press.

I was sure that the first cheese would champion the second. There goes that human error part again. Fast forward: it is now two months later and time for the cheeses to be enjoyed. Well, sort of.

The first cheese had an odor emanating from the scored wax. That can't be good. And it wasn't. For the first time it genuinely occurred to me that I'm dealing with a living product. It has the ability to "do things," (I just don't know what yet). There was an air pocket, a big one, and little bubbles everywhere else. I didn't do that...IT did it. I was almost afraid to taste it, but I was compelled to; it was sour and off. At that point it was only good for a photo op. The second wheel had a much more pleasant odor, a texture that looked somewhat like cheese should, and it even tasted okay (though it was still pretty sour). This cheese was destined to become something greater. Well, something edible.

So what did I learn?

I have no idea. I can probably guess that temperature played a major role in the outcome, but that's about as far as I'm willing to go. I did learn that I need to take better notes. (I'm wondering what exactly I thought I was trying to communicate to future generations of cheesemakers with my little journal. It was like trying to read transcripts of a broken conversation out of context.) I also learned that I need to make more soft cheeses, those have been easier and much more delicious so far. As for the rest, the firmer of the craft, I will cheese press on. I'm not afraid of mistakes, I figure I'll just get more of the experience I need to make great cheese. (Though, if it KEEPS happening, I might swear off dairy forever. Kidding.) All in all, not bad for a first time.

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